# How to Winterize Your Well Pump in Spokane: A Complete Guide

Spokane winters are no joke. We regularly see temperatures drop well below zero, and those extended cold snaps — the kind where it's single digits or below for a week straight — are exactly when well pump systems are most vulnerable.

Every winter, we get emergency calls from homeowners with frozen pipes, cracked pressure tanks, and damaged pumps. The frustrating part? Almost all of it is preventable. Here's how to protect your well pump system before the cold hits, and what to do if you're already in trouble.

Why Spokane Well Systems Are Vulnerable to Freezing

Before we get into the how-to, it helps to understand what's actually at risk. Your submersible pump — the one sitting deep inside your well — is generally safe. It's below the frost line and surrounded by water. The vulnerable parts are all above ground or in the transition zone:

  • **Pressure tank and associated plumbing** (often in a crawlspace, basement, or pump house)
  • **The pitless adapter and wellhead area** (the connection point where the pipe exits the well casing)
  • **Exposed pipes** between the well and the house
  • **The pressure switch and control box**
  • **Any above-ground water lines** (to outbuildings, stock tanks, or irrigation)

Spokane's frost line is approximately 24–36 inches deep, depending on the specific location and soil conditions. Any pipe or component above that depth is at risk during a hard freeze.

Winterization Checklist: Steps to Protect Your System

1. Insulate Exposed Pipes

This is the single most important thing you can do. Any water pipe that's exposed to cold air — in crawlspaces, garages, pump houses, or running above ground — needs insulation.

What to use: - Foam pipe insulation (the pre-slit tubes from the hardware store) — Good for moderate cold - Heat tape or heat cable — Essential for pipes in unheated spaces that regularly see below-freezing temps. Install heat tape first, then wrap with insulation over the top. - Fiberglass pipe wrap — Good for odd-shaped fittings and valves where foam tubes don't fit

Pay special attention to: - The pipe run from your wellhead into the house - Any plumbing in the crawlspace (especially near vents or foundation openings) - The pressure tank and the pipes immediately connected to it - Outdoor hose bibs connected to your well system

2. Protect the Wellhead

Your wellhead (the top of the well casing that sticks up out of the ground) is a direct path for cold air to reach your water system. While the well cap should be tight and sealed, the area around the wellhead can benefit from additional protection.

  • Make sure the **well cap is secure** and not cracked or loose
  • Build up **insulating material** around the base of the casing (mulch, straw bales, or rigid foam insulation). Don't completely bury or seal the wellhead — it needs to remain accessible and the vent needs to stay open to prevent vacuum issues
  • If your wellhead is in an exposed area with no wind protection, consider a temporary **insulated enclosure** for winter

3. Insulate or Heat Your Pump House / Well House

If your pressure tank and controls are in a separate pump house or well house, this structure needs to stay above freezing. Options:

  • **Thermostatically controlled heat lamp or space heater** — Set to turn on at 35°F. Use a heater rated for unattended use (no exposed elements). A ceramic heat emitter or oil-filled radiator is safer than a heat lamp near flammable materials.
  • **Insulate the walls and ceiling** of the pump house if they aren't already
  • **Seal gaps and cracks** where cold air enters. Even small openings can drop the temperature inside dramatically when it's -10°F outside.
  • **Check the door** — A pump house door that doesn't close properly is a freeze waiting to happen

4. Close and Insulate Crawlspace Vents

If your pressure tank is in a crawlspace, close the foundation vents for winter. Open crawlspace vents in January are one of the most common causes of frozen well system components we see in the Spokane area.

You can use foam vent covers (available at any hardware store) or rigid insulation cut to fit. Remember to reopen them in spring for ventilation.

5. Disconnect and Drain Outdoor Lines

Any water lines running to outbuildings, garden hydrants, stock tanks, or irrigation systems that won't be used through winter should be:

1. Shut off at the supply valve 2. Drained completely — open the lowest point to let water gravity-drain out 3. Left open so any residual water can expand without cracking the pipe

Don't forget about outdoor hose bibs. Disconnect hoses, close the interior shut-off valve if you have one, and open the bib to drain.

6. Maintain a Minimum Drip During Extreme Cold

During extended periods of extreme cold (below 0°F for multiple days), consider leaving a faucet at the far end of your system open to a pencil-lead-thin stream. Moving water is much harder to freeze than standing water. Yes, this uses a small amount of water and electricity (your pump will cycle more), but it's far cheaper than repairing burst pipes.

7. Check Your System Before Winter Hits

Don't wait until the first freeze to find out something's wrong. Before cold weather arrives:

  • **Check your pressure tank** — Is it holding proper pressure? Is it waterlogged? A failing tank should be replaced before winter, not during a freeze emergency.
  • **Inspect electrical connections** — Corroded or loose connections are more likely to fail in cold weather
  • **Test the system** — Run water and verify normal pressure and function
  • **Consider a [professional inspection](https://spokanepumprepairs.com/services)** if your system is older or you had issues last winter

What Happens When Pipes Freeze?

When water freezes inside a pipe, it expands — and that expansion generates enormous pressure. Here's what we commonly see:

  • **Cracked or burst pipes** — Copper, PVC, and PEX can all burst, though PEX is more freeze-resistant due to its flexibility
  • **Cracked pressure tanks** — A frozen pressure tank is almost always a total loss
  • **Damaged pressure switch** — Frozen water in the small tubing that connects to the switch can crack the housing or damage the diaphragm
  • **Cracked fittings and valves** — Brass and plastic fittings are particularly vulnerable

The damage from a single freeze event can easily cost $1,000–$5,000+ between parts, labor, and water damage cleanup. Compare that to a $50 roll of heat tape and some pipe insulation.

Emergency Steps: What to Do If Your Well System Freezes

Already dealing with a frozen system? Here's what to do (and what not to do):

Do:

1. Check if the pump is running. If the pump is running but no water is coming out, you have a freeze somewhere between the well and your faucets. If the pump isn't running at all, the freeze may be affecting the pressure switch.

2. Open a faucet. This relieves pressure and gives the water somewhere to go once it thaws.

3. Apply gentle heat to exposed pipes. Use a hair dryer, heat lamp, or portable space heater directed at the suspected frozen area. Start from the faucet end and work toward the freeze.

4. Check the pressure switch. The small ¼" tube that connects the pressure switch to the plumbing frequently freezes. You can carefully warm this area with a hair dryer.

5. Call a professional if you can't locate the freeze, if pipes have already burst, or if the situation involves any below-ground components.

Don't:

  • **Don't use a torch or open flame.** This is a fire hazard and can damage pipes (especially PVC, which can melt and release toxic fumes).
  • **Don't turn the pump on and off repeatedly** if it's not producing water. Running a pump dry damages the motor.
  • **Don't ignore a pipe that looks bulged or deformed.** It's about to burst. Shut off the supply before attempting to thaw it.
  • **Don't wait for it to "thaw on its own"** if temperatures aren't rising. The longer water sits frozen in a pipe, the more likely it is to cause a crack.

Preventive Maintenance: Year-Round Protection

Winterization isn't just a fall activity. Here's a year-round approach to keeping your system resilient:

Spring: - Reopen crawlspace vents - Inspect pipes for any damage from winter - Check that heat tape is still functional (test it before you need it next year)

Summer/Fall: - Schedule a well system inspection before winter - Replace aging heat tape - Stock up on insulation supplies before the hardware store runs out in December - Insulate any new plumbing that was added during the year

Before First Freeze: - Run through the full winterization checklist above - Make sure you have a professional's number saved — you don't want to be searching for a pump contractor at 6 AM on a frozen Saturday morning

Spokane-Specific Considerations

A few local notes based on what we see in the field:

  • **The South Hill and hillside properties** often have longer, more exposed pipe runs between the well and the house. These are high-risk for freezing.
  • **Older homes in the Spokane Valley** sometimes have well systems with minimal insulation — especially if the pressure tank is in an unheated garage or outbuilding.
  • **Properties in Mead, Deer Park, and rural areas north of Spokane** tend to have longer well-to-house distances and more exposed infrastructure.
  • **Manufactured homes** often have plumbing in vulnerable skirted crawlspaces. Heat tape is essential.

Every year we see preventable freeze damage. A few hours of preparation in October or November can save you thousands in December and January.

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Need help winterizing your well system — or dealing with a freeze emergency? Pump Division provides winterization services and emergency well pump repair throughout Spokane and surrounding areas. Call (509) 214-9355 — we're here when you need us. Licensed. Bonded. Insured. Contractor #PUMPDD\*771BL.